It's a great time to be a hand tool woodworker. There are a ton of great resources out there along with an increasing amount of options for tools. This is the guide I wish existed a couple years ago when I first started this hobby.
Assembing your first set of tools is the biggest challenge. I've listed here 28 items you need to build the more common pieces of furniture. For more recommendations and expert opinions look at the extended list below.
Everyone has opinions to which tools are essential. Eventually you will too. To help the beginner get started I've compiled this list from hand tool experts and resources online. I've thrown in my 2 cents too for good measure. I've tried to make this chart as convenient as possible. Help support this site by using these links. Some links go straight to the source to help out the boutique tool makers. I'd appreciate any feedback.
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In a hand tool workshop, bench planes are the primary method to take rough-milled lumber and make them flat, square, and smooth. They are typically numbered based on the Stanley system. For a beginner, a vintage Stanley No. 5 Jack is a great option since they are cheap, a great experience to learn how planes work, and flexible enough to be useful for many of the taks you need to do. [ 1 2 Bevel up vs. Bevel down 4 5 ]
Scrub planes are for aggressively thinning boards down. They are used with a highly cambered blades to take out big chunks of wood. They are often used accross the grain of boards. Many people recommend using a No. 5 Jack Planes for this task [Schwarz] when equiped with a cambered blade. You could also use a No. 4. Newer versions of this plane exists but since this is a roughing tool, you typically don't need the high tolerance of a precision made plane.
Many people recommend it as the first plane you buy [Schwarz] because it is versatile. Often used similarly as a scrub plane when blade is cambered. If you do use it as your only bench plane, it's best to have 2 blades, one cambered and one not.
Low-angled jack planes are often recommended as your jack plane bacause you can swap out blades with different angles and they work well as a shooting board plane.
Low-angled jack planes were less common historically. Today there are new options because people have realized they are very versatile. Blades are bevel up, so by using multiple irons with differently sharpened angles, you are able to use this plane for end-grain (low-angle), regular planing (medium angle), difficult grain (high angle), scraping (negative angle), and toothing with a toothing blade. Since the blade is at a low angle, this is a great plane to also use on a shooting board. If you choose it for a shooting board, it pays to buy a premium plane so that the edges are swuare to the base. [ 1 2 ]
Unusual to make and used planes are rare.
A plane between the number 5 and 7, it is often recommended as a good choice as a jointer for smaller work.
Jointer planes are typically the second plane used when flattening baords. It's long length makes it easy to get boards flat. If you can afford it, a premium plane here is money well spent because it's more difficult to true up a large plane.
Many people recommend using a slightly cambered blade on a jointer. This makes the task of squaring up edges of boards simpler since you can shift the plane to take a bigger shving on one side or another.
This is the last plane used on boards. It's for the final pass, often after assembly, to smooth out all the final surfaces of a piece of furniture.
For creating furniture in a hand tool shop, these are more important than collecting all the numbers of bench planes. For a beginner I think 2 are essential: A router plane is a tool that can increase your accuracy in refining joints. A plow plane makes the grooves that are essential for frame and panel joinery and drawer bottoms. A modern shop could use a powered router for many of these tasks, but these planes don't require as much set up, jig making, or test cuts.
You could make a strong argument that router planes should be the first joinery plane you should get. They increase the accuracy of many joinet, including tenons and dadoes. [1]
Plow (plough) planes make it easy to add grooves to wood. Use it for channels for drawer bottoms or a panels in a frame and panel door. There are a number of vintage plow planes in wood or metal along with new versions. Shwarz prefers wooden plow planes, but the Veritas plow plane is more reasonably priced and can covert into a tongue and groove plane with an added kit. [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ]
Rabbet (rebate) planes come in a wide variety of forms. They have blades that run to the side of the plane and are used to make square notches on the edges of boards. More complicated versions have skewed blades, fences, depth stops, and nickers, in any and all of those combinations, in a number of sizes and configurations. For making typical rabbets, the favorite of most reviewers is the LV/Veritas Skew Rabbet plane, though the basic wooden rabbets work too in the hands of skilled woodworkers. [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ]
Shoulder planes are similar to rabbet planes (and can be considered a subset) but are specifically tuned to work on end grain and have faces that are machined at right angles so you can use it on it's side. You can use a shoulder plane to make rabbets, but typicall a shoulder plane is used to refine existing surfaces. Most reviews prefer the Lee Valley/Veritas plane because it provides better options for gripping. [ 1 2 3 ]
See rabbet planes.
Block planes are useful little planes for doing small planing tasks from chamfering edges to cleaning up joinery.
Accurate marking and measuring are critical to quality work. To start, a few are basic but essential: A knife is used over pencils for accuracy. Adjustable squares are essential for their multitude of uses. Marking guages let you copy one measurement consistently to other pieces. Many of the other tools, make great first projects.
Marking gauges allow you to consistently mark distances from the edge of a board. Most people prefer versions that use a knife or wheel/
Panel gauges are used to consistently mark the width of boards. Often these are made by the craftsman, and used ones come up pretty often.
When squaring up the edge of a board with your hand planes, it's handy to have a small square to check your progress. It's also useful for fitting into tight spots. Double squares have an adjustable bar and can work well as depth gauges too.
You need a combination square, either a 12 inch or 6 inch. While 6 inch combination squares are not as common, I find them to be a more useful size: big enough for accuracy, yet small enough to not get in the way. If you opt for a machinist square, make sure your 12 inch is a combo. [ 1 2 3 ]
You need a combination square, either a 12 inch or 6 inch. Most people recommend the 12 inch. Be sure to read up on all of a combination squares uses. A quality square is worth the money. If you need to save, be sure to test the cheaper squares in the store to pick out the most accurate. [ 1 ]
Framing squares are great for larger work.
If you have a 6 inch combination square, you can remove the ruler for measuring in tight spaces. Thin flexible stainless steel rulers are useful for the Charlesworth "Ruler Trick" in sharpening plane blades;
Avoid cork-backed or non-slip back tools since it's nice to be able to measure close to the work and modern non-slip backs can mar work. Incra rules have a lot of fans. Consider buying a center-ruler or a ruler with metric equivalents if your combination square is imperial, or vice-versa.
18″ rulers are nice when needing to accurately measure beyond your typical combination square. They tend to be more accurate than an equivalent tape measure or wooden ruler. Avoid cork-backed or non-slip back tools since it's nice to be able to measure close to the work and modern non-slip backs can mar work. Incra rules have a lot of fans. Consider buying a center-ruler or a ruler with metric equivalents if your combination square is imperial, or vice-versa.
24″ rulers are nice when needing to accurately measure beyond your typical combination square. They tend to be more accurate than an equivalent tape measure or wooden ruler. Avoid cork-backed or non-slip back tools since it's nice to be able to measure close to the work and modern non-slip backs can mar work. Incra rules have a lot of fans. Consider buying a center-ruler or a ruler with metric equivalents if your combination square is imperial, or vice-versa. [ 1 ]
Hand tool woodworkers often measure against existing pieces and with ratios instead of working strictly off measurements. However, tape measures come in handy for general sizing. For consistency's sake, consider using the same tape measure for the entire project. Story sticks are also a great option for consistent measurement.
Winding sticks help you determine twist in boards you are flattening. Winding sticks are great first projects for learning how to work with your hand tools.
Straight Edges help determine your parts are flat and true. While you can purchase accurate machinist's straight edges, there are other alternatives. Wooden straightedges work well, specially when made of stable quarter sawn wood. Also, you can just as easily use your jointer plane to check for straight. [ 1 2 ]
Sliding bevels (aka bevel gauges) let you replicate angles consistently. Choose one where the mechanism that tightens the blade doesn't stick out and prevent you from laying it flat.
Lumber markers help identify your pieces, whether it's labeling what type of wood your lumber is, or identifying the different furniture pieces. It's handy to have a few different kinds. Crayons are bright, but could affect your finish. Chalk is good for marking darker woods. Pencils for lighter woods. Whatever you use, learn about how to use traditional woodworker marks and the cabinetmaker's triangle to help remember which piece goes where. [ 1 2 ]
While marking knives are prefered over pencils in woodworking, a fine-pointed (0.5mm) mechanical pencil is handy for rough measurement. It's also useful for going over a knife lines to emphasize the marks. The pencil will highlight each side of the line and make it easier to see where to saw and chisel.
The standard flat spokeshave is the best to purchase first. It can do both chamfering and shallow curves. Kunz is reported to be the best of the inexpensive Stanley copies. The LV/Veritas spokeshave has adjusters, but the Lie Nielsen is as easy to adjust with only a little guidance. [ 1 2 3 4 ]
The Shinto rasp isn't truly a cabinet rasp like these others, but it works great as an intro to using rasps. Many report that the quality of Nicholson rasps has slipped recently, so it may not be the best option. It is included here since it was recommended by name in a list. [ 1 2 3 ]
A medium rasp is for detailed work. Auriou tends to be mentioned most by woodworkers, although the Liogier has a similar history. The Gramercy is a newer option made in Pakistan and The Best Things have some made for them by Liogier. [ 1 2 ]
A rattail rasp is for fine curves. Auriou tends to be mentioned most by woodworkers, although the Liogier has a similar history. The Gramercy is a newer option made in Pakistan and The Best Things have some made for them by Liogier. [ 1 2 ]
4 way rasps are a inexpensive way to get introduced to curved woodworking.
Working with card scrapers is like having a never-ending supply of sandpaper. They are especially useful when you need to smooth out difficult grain. Card scrapers really only differ in their thickness (which affects flexibility) and shape. A thickness of 0.80mm (.032″) is fine to start with and the Bahco brand is nice since it comes with a case. Sharpening card scrapers often requires a burnisher. You can likely use a tool you already have (like a nail set), or buy one just for the task. [ 1 2 3 4 ]
Mallet choice can be very personal, but almost any mallet will work to start with. The differences are mostly shape (a square Joiners Mallet vs. round Carvers Mallet) and weight (lighter for detail work vs. bigger for heavy work like mortises). Consider something between 16oz to 20oz (4-1/2″) to start with. If you choose to make a mallet, the laminated ones are the easiest to build and most forums have great examples and tutorials. More expensive mallets are often made with different materials, like brass, urethane, or resin-impregnated wood, to change the weight, size, or durability. [ 1 2 3 4 ]
Cross-peen hammers can be used for small nails (brads), but in a hand-tool shop it is more often used for adjusting your plane blades. For use with a plane, some prefer Brass because it is softer than the iron your blade is made of, and some hammers come with a wooden side for use with wooden planes. Schwarz in the Anarchist's tool chest suggests a weight between 3oz to 6oz.
Nails are as traditional as dovetail joints, and hammers are essential for your kit. Traditionalists like wooden handles, smooth heads, and curved (not straight) claws. Woodworkers tend to use smaller hammers than carpenters so 16oz or less is prefered.
TBD
[ 1 2 3 Where to Buy Saws There are lots of places to buy new, sharp backsaws, but buying a sharp handsaw or ripsaw is more of a challenge. However, there are three gentlemen I have bought handsaws and ripsaws from that I can recommend. Sometimes they also have backsaws in stock, though vintage backsaws are a lot more rare than handsaws. Daryl Weir (weir@gallatinriver.net): 781 S. Market St., Knoxville IL 61448. Daryl sharpens saws and sells saws on eBay on occasion. Steve Cook (SharpeningGuy01@aol.com): 1160 Taxville Road, York, PA 17408. Steve also sharpens saws if you have an old saw that you need toughed up (or completely refiled). Tom Law: 62 West Water St., Smithsburg MD, 21783, 301-824-5223. Tom no longer sharpens saws for hire, but he will sell you a saw that he has rehabbed and sharpened. If you know of other reliable sources for buying sharp handsaws, add a comment below. ] [ 1 2 ]
A rip saw is a good choice for your first hand saw because making rip cuts is more arduous than cross cuts.
Crosscut hand saws cut accross a board and leaves a fine surace.
A fine crosscut hand saws will leave a fine surface only needing a couple passes on a shooting board for finishing.
Dovetail saws are the small detailed saws used for their namesake. If you only use hand tools, consider it for your second backsaw since it's shallow height and fine teeth limit it's flexibility. Ther are a lot of options these days, from the best value Veritas line, to custom makers here and listed below. There are even some unique ideas like Glen Drake's two-handed saw. [ 1 ]
See Hand Tool Makers for even more saw wrights and custom saw builders.
Carcass (carcase) saws are typically medium sized back saws filed crosscut with 12-14 teeth. It is used for the cutting pieces to final size, along with typical fine cross grain cuts, like tenon shoulders and dados. This is a great first backsaw saw to purchase because its medium size allows it to be used in a lot of cases. Consider also the hybrid-filed sash saws which were a traditional option in combination with a finer dovetail saw. [ 1 2 ]
See Hand Tool Makers for even more saw wrights and custom saw builders.
A tenon saw's larger height doesn't just allow it to cut deeper. The height makes it easier to tell if the saw is balanced left or right, so cuts are easier to keep vertical. Some makers have slightly bigger or smaller options. Note that while the Gramercy Sash saw is the biggest of the Gramercy saws, it is smaller and with it's hybrid filing can be used in place of a carcass saw.
See Hand Tool Makers for even more saw wrights and custom saw builders.
Honing guides make sharpening easy. While many suggest learning to sharpen without guides, using a guide makes sharpening consistent for the beginner. Certain guides are better for different blades.
A good workbench is the centerpiece of a hand tool workshop. It functions both as a work surface and a giant surface for clamps. If you're just starting out, building a workbench should be your first project. Don't worry. It doesn't have to be fancy, just functional and cheap! Eventually you will figure out your preferences and build something better. If you have more money than time, purchasing a bench is a valid option. If you're somewhere in the middle, try finding a class or rent some shoptime in a communal space. It'll expedite your workbench build.
See below for workbench books and plans.
Example classes
Workbenches work best with efficient ways to hold your work. One inexpensive option is to go "viceless" and use holdfasts along with appliances as Mike Siemsen demonstrates in this video. The norm however is to include some sort of vice. There are increasing options out there, from simple to complex. The best thing you can do is purchase Schwarz's Workbench book to guide you. [ 1 2 ]
See below for workbench books and plans.
See clamp section for holdfasts.
Alternatively you can use a Moxon Vise
Alternatively you can use battens
Sawbenches put your work at the right height to use a hand saw efficiently: the top should be knee height. This is another great first project. As far as making a saw bench without a saw bench, Siemsen arrived at a great solution, by using common 5 gallon buckets. Many commercial saw horses are too high to be used as a saw bench.
There are 2 types of cabinet clamps that are most recommended. The Parallel clamp has deep jaws whose faces stay parallel. A lot of people are fans of Jet, although Irwin and Bessey are also popular. They are expensive, but you could save by buying a set or waiting for the sales that happen a few times a year. The aluminum bar clamp is prefered by Paul Sellers. The jaws aren't as deep but they have the benefit of being lightweight yet sturdy. To start, you can buy 4 that are about 40″ or 2 at 40″ and 2 at 24″. [ 1 ]
Wooden Handscrews are a great first set of clamps to purchase because of their versatility. Because of their shape you can clamp these clamps onto a table or workbench to create a temporary front vise or to hold wood to mortise. Buy 2.
Woodjaw or Cam Clamps are light to medium duty clamps that allow for careful pressure. One of the benefits of Cam Clamps is that they are inexpensive to make.
Holdfasts are the amazing clamp that lets you clamp something to the middle of a table. Most holdfasts are made for 3/4" holes. The Gramercy is the standard. Custom holdfasts can be made for holes larger than 3/4". The LV/Veritas hold fast offers more precise pressure though the screw. Buy a pair. [ 1 2 3 4 ]
Coming Soon!
by Mike Siemsen
The easiest bench to build. Mike Siemsen goes through all the steps from buying the tools you need to constructing your first bench out of nothing. Video of this bench in use.
by Chris Schwarz
The best book to guide you into determining which bench is right for you.
by Chris Schwarz
Acting as an addendum to Schwarz's original book, this offers additional plans to a variety of workbenches.
by Robert Wearing
This book covers all the hand-tool skills you need to know with exceptional detail and clarity. A highly recommended book.
by Christopher Schwarz
Chris Schwarz did the research to uncover the essential list of hand tools you need in your shop. An essential guide.
by Jim Tolpin
Tolpin's book works like a mini apprecnticeship where he goes over the tools, then helps you build skills by creating tools and jigs for your workshop.
by Tage Frid
Tage Frid's tome goes over almost every woodworking technique, covering both hand and powertools, refined through his years of teaching.
by Bob Flexner
Finishing can be confusing because each manufacturer creates different names for the same product. Bob Flexner's treatise clears up all the mess in straightforward language.
by Leonard Lee
One of two sharpening standards (the other is by Lie-Nielsen) that goes from theory to practice on sharpening almost every tool imagineable.
by Editors
Online Fine Woodworking subscriptions let you search and download PDF articles from their 40 year archive. Great for finding plans and answering specific questions.
by Chris Schwarz
This 3 hour video clearly covers the use of all the basic handtools: marking tools, saws, chisels, rasps, card scrapers, braces, drills, jack plane, routing plane, and smoothing plane.
by Chris Schwarz
Chris Schwarz takes you through all the steps in making a shaker side table in real time (289 minutes worth). All hand tool construction techniques are covered.
by Chris Schwarz
Focuses on how to mill rough lumber only using handplanes. Includes instructions on how to sharpen and the proper order of using handplanes.
by Paul Sellers
Okay, I've never seen this video, but if it's anything like Paul Seller's videos, I'm sure it's great. With 7 DVDs it's I imagine is like an apprenticeship in a box.
by Chris Schwarz
Vintage planes are better made than many newer planes. But, they sometimes need a little help to get them working at a high degree. Schwarz takes you throiugh the steps.
by Ron Herman
One day you will need to sharpen your saws. In this video Ron Herman explains the process in great clarity.
by C. H. Becksvoort
Becksvoort, the master of shaker furniture takes you step by step and reveals all his tricks on how to make through and half-blind dovetails.
Paul Sellers's years of woodworking and teaching come through in his videos. Beware though that his skills make things look easier than they are. Videos on his site.
The Rennaissance Woodworker
Shannon Rogers explains hand tool woodworking in an east straughforward manner. He's been consistenly produceing videos so he's covered a lot throughout the years.
The Unplugged Woodshop
Tom Fidgen's videos do more showing than explaining but you can still learn a lot from watching every detailed step.
Woodright's Shop
Roy Underhill has been making the Woodright's Shop since 1979! You can watch most of them on PBS. Lately, he's shared the stage with a lot of great woodworking guests.
Deneb Puchalski of Lie-Nielsen has made a lot of videos to help you get started. Lukily, a lot of the videos, like his sharpening ones, work on any tool. Videos on thier site.
Logan Cabinet Shop
Rob Rozaieski has been making fewer videos lately, but his long backlog has lots of great lessons.
Coming Soon!